
My trip to Latvia and Belarus was amazing! Here are a few details from my travels.
Getting There
Just getting there was an adventure. My gun was briefly confiscated by the Riga police when a customs worker did not believe me that, in the states, one does not need a national permit for a shotgun used for hunting. She looked at me with narrowed eyes and pronounced me a liar, claiming she had seen otherwise in movies. It wasn’t looking good.
Luckily, as I was being escorted away to the police building, I spotted my cousin, who quickly came to my rescue. Thanks Ilze!
Belarus
When I made it Belarus the next day I was pretty well exhausted, but I couldn’t pass up the chance to have a couple of shots of vodka with my hosts and interpreter, Ksenja. I was so relieved to be done with airports and people who wanted to frisk me!

In many places in Belarus there are leftover remnants from Soviet times all around, including jeeps, trucks, motorcycles and yes, even tanks!
The landscape itself is beautiful and somber, richly forested and hilly in the northern part of the country, with peat bogs and marshes in the southern half.
The Ghost of my Grandfather
At 4:30 am the next day I was tromping through the woods with a man who, in my bleary-eyed state of mind, had actually become my grandfather.
Michael was soft spoken, and in his green wool mackinaw and matching woodsman’s cap, was the spitting image of my grandfather as I knew him as a child. He smelled of aftershave and had a ruddy face. We did a three-step dance-like march in time with the singing bird, stopping in absolute stillness while waiting for the bird to go back to its singing, when it was safe for us to take three more steps. At times we had to hold our frozen pose for 10-15 minutes before we could move.
All of a sudden, Michael stopped and gestured to a clump in the top of a tree. It did not seem possible the sound of the bird was coming from this clump (among many in the top of the tree), and I paused for some time, not knowing what to do. He seemed to indicate I should shoot, and by now my heart was pounding so loud he actually told me afterwards he could hear it. I finally guessed on the clump and shot, and the bird flew away unscathed. Michael just shrugged his shoulders.
We tried to get close to another bird that morning, but it flew away just as we were getting close. Then it was too light to hunt any more.
I was heartbroken, tired and angry with myself for blowing it, and I slept the sleep of the dead.
Day 2
My last chance. I was mentally prepared and ready to go at 3:30 AM when Michael met us at the hunting lodge. A cold front had blown in during the night and the temperature was a good 20 degrees colder. But more importantly, it was windy, and as we set off into the woods, I did not hear any birds, capercayllie or otherwise. I was pretty sure I had blown my chance.
We searched for hours, and it was beginning to get light. The wind showed no sign of letting up and still no sign of the capercayllie.
Michael had me wait at the junction of a logging road and he vanished into the night air.
Fifteen minutes later he returned with an excited look. He led me back to the woods and before too long I heard the unmistakable clucks and whirring noise this bird makes. Everything is history from here. I made a good shot on the bird and Michael pulled a sprig from a fir tree and put it in my own wool cap.

This was the most amazing bird I have every seen. I had mixed feelings about shooting such a beautiful bird, as I always have when it comes to hunting. But the forestry minister (who accompanied me on the hunt) assured me they had to prove the hunting grounds had at least 8 mature birds in the area before they issued any permits. As an aside, they have 15 hunting regions in Belarus, and they only issue 4 permits maximum, per region. So the number of capercayllie shot will not exceed 60 birds in any year for the entire country.
I will post more about Belarus and Latvia soon.